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Several Seattle restaurants, (including Canlis and Tom Douglas’ new spots) have started offering pop-up dinners. The idea being that chefs “pop-up” somewhere outside their restaurants and orchestrate multiple courses for hungry guests. With limited space and special interaction with such notable Northwest chefs, these dinners are sure to be a hot ticket. The Eastside has staked its claim to eventful dining, too. Kirkland’s bin on the lake has started doing pop-up dinners in January.
Chef R. Paul Hyman, Chef de Cuisine at bin on the lake since November, will be creating a special 5-course meal for each dinner, set to take place the third Sunday throughout the year. The program, called Bin on the Move, is meant to be nomadic – the dinner moves every month (think place like art museums, galleries, wineries, and perhaps a farm or two) and pairs up with a different local winemaker each time. You’re not going to know where Bin on the Move is going to happen until a couple of days before, adding mystery and intrigue to your meal. These dinners are meant to be exclusive, with no more than 12 seats available (one of which is reserved for the winemaker). It’s a bit of a price tag ($140, sans tax and gratuity), but the cost is worth the exclusivity, experience, and of course, the food and wine.
I had the opportunity to check out the February’s Bin on the Move at the beautiful Efeste Winery in Woodinville.
Before dinner we sipped on the now sold out 2009 Feral Sauvignon Blanc (if you happen to find a bottle somewhere, don’t let it slip through your fingers. There’s a reason it’s sold out.)
We were soon ushered into the winery’s barrel room, where an elegant table made of doors set upon oak barrels was waiting.
Course after course was splendidly paired with the creations of Efeste winemaker Brennan Leighton (previously of Chateau Ste. Michelle and Eroica fame). If you’ve never met Brennan Leighton or tried Efeste’s fine wines, stop wasting time and get over to their tasting room in Woodinville. You’ll enjoy Leighton and his tattooed arms, Southern California charm and jovial countenance. He creates some serious wines, without being serious (“…it’s just a beverage,” he said.)
The five-course menu (“Studly” and “Stupid Good” according to Leighton) was a stellar sampling of Hyman’s talent.
My favorite of the night was the cedar roasted sturgeon with duck fat hash browns, roasted fennel, arugula, creme fraiche and caviar.
Simply put, it was the best dish I’ve eaten in years. Let’s hope this makes it onto the menu at bin on the lake, if only on special. The sturgeon was a perfect match with Lola chardonnay.
A close second was the roasted lamb loin wrapped in proscuitto, served with oxtail ragout, chard, gnocchi, cipollini jam and a mint pistou.
Hyman paired the dish with the 2008 Jolie Bouche Syrah, which just garnered a 95 from Wine Spectator (Efeste’s part owner, Patrick Smith, said the winery has had a flood of calls with queries about the wine, including requests from the Coen brothers).
One of the highlights of this tremendous night came with an offer for the table to barrel taste the unreleased 2009 Big Poppa. Winemakers tend to be reluctant to let people taste wine before it’s ready, but Leighton wanted guests to get an idea of the process. It’s a big wine (hence the name), and we were all fascinated with the earthy, gravelly taste. Look for it in about a year and a half. It's unexpected treats like this, paired with fun people and good food and wine that will drive the success of Bin on the Move.
Interested in taking part in the next Bin on the Move? Check here for updates, and remember seats are limited, so book well in advance. Dine Around Seattle is coming up in March, so that’s a perfect opportunity to try Hyman’s craft at bin on the lake. Bin on the lake is open Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 9 pm, and Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10 pm. Don't miss a fantastic happy hour, nightly 4 to 6pm and 9pm to close.
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